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Doug Scott - An Illustrated Lecture
5-Dec-2007

Himalaya Alpine Style

Significant moments during climbs on:

Regent Theatre
7 Medford St, Arlington, MA
7:30pm Wednesday, January 16, 2008

Box Office: 781-646-4249
$10.00 per ticket available at the door

Poster

Fall Frolic Pictures
19-Oct-2007

Check out pictures from Fall Frolic evening events: Fall Frolic Pictures

Work as the Harvard Cabin Caretaker on Mt. Washington
26-Sep-2007

The Harvard Mountaineering Club is now accepting caretaker applications for the this winter season (Dec. 1 to April 1). The job includes:

Currently we are looking for a full-time caretaker who is able to commit to the whole season. However in the past we have been able to break the season up into months in the case that one caretaker is not available for the whole winter season. We are also looking for people who are interested in doing fill-in caretaker work, so that the full-time caretaker can take some time off during the season.

To apply for the 2007-2008 season please send a brief letter or email describing related outdoor experience, first aid training, any chain saw experience and climbing experience to HMC Cabin Liaison Leah Boch at [mail] between now and November 1, 2008. Please include your contact information (phone, email, permanent address) and dates available for the position.

I look forward to receiving applications,

Leah Boch
HMC Cabin Liaison

Gunks with Bill
28-Aug-2007

September 28-30, 2007
Social Climbing at the Gunks with Bill

Find a partner and come to the Gunks this weekend. Check late week weather status at http://www.gunks.com.

Friday and Saturday camping on the extensive grass at the Grist Mill (free- but $10/night suggested donation, parking, flush toilets, water) close to the cliffs. See Tuthilltown Grist Mill.

Saturday & Sunday- 7:30-8:30a, meet at the upper Overlook on 44/55: Climbing protection and anchor demonstration and practice for those interested. Try out your gear and test it for holding.

Saturday- 5:00p-7:00p, at the Brauhaus: Hoist a few at the bar and tell some lies. Decide where all to go for dinner together.

If you can, let me know you are coming. I will use your return e-mail address to advise on possible weather cancellation on Friday before 3:00p. Brauhaus pay 'phone number: 845 255-9766.

I will be driving down from Weston at 3:00p on Friday for dinner at the Brauhaus around 7:00p and would be happy to have some car company.

Gunks ho!
Bill

Quincy Quarries Cleanup
23-Aug-2007

Sat September 8, 10am-2pm.

Please call REI at (781) 740-9430 to register and obtain directions.

Now is your chance to give back to the great places where we all love to recreate. REI, the Access Fund, and DCR have partnered to bring this year’s Adopt-A-Crag event to the South Shore. We will be working to make the Quarries shine for ClimbFest, taking place on September 22.

Please wear long pants and bring work gloves.

Free REI T-shirt, snacks and water will also be provided by REI.

Flyer

The Access Fund Announces New Executive Director
9-Aug-2007

August 6, 2006, Boulder, CO—The Access Fund is pleased to announce the hire of Brady Robinson as the new Executive Director.

Robinson’s 20-year climbing career spans the spectrum from dirtbag climber to professional climber, writer, and photographer. He also has a decade of nonprofit management experience with Outward Bound. Starting September 1, he will assume his new role as Executive Director of the only national climbers’ advocacy organization, the Access Fund.

“Brady’s background is an ideal fit for what the Access Fund needs in a leader; he is first and foremost a climber but he knows how to run a business and build a strong team. The staff and Board are confident that Brady has what it takes to move the organization towards our vision,” says Dan Nordstrom, Access Fund Board President. He continues, “Brady has climbed it all––from alpine granite to sandstone boulders–– and now he’s going to work to keep it all open.”

Brady will be joining the Access Fund fulltime at the Boulder Office beginning September 1st and can be reached at [mail], 303.545.6772 x101.

About the Access Fund
Since 1991, the Access Fund has been the only national advocacy organization that keeps climbing areas open and conserves the climbing environment. The Access Fund supports and represents over 1.6 million climbers nationwide in all forms of climbing, including Rock Climbing, Ice Climbing, Mountaineering, and Bouldering. Five core programs support the mission on national and local levels: public policy, stewardship & conservation (including grants), grassroots activism, climber education, and land acquisition. For more information visit www.accessfund.org or www.boulderproject.org.

August Gathering
17-Jul-2007

Combined AMC/AAC August Gathering 2007
WMNF Campground, Campton, NH
Old timers, families, & kids welcome

Fri.-Sun., August 24-26, 2007

Great climbing opportunities! Beautiful bolts at Rumney; tranquil trad in Franconia; true alpine on Cannon; exploration at Owl's Head Hiking, biking, boating.

Camping fee: $5.00 /person/weekend
Group site "B" for 40 reserved
Rain or shine (bring tarps to keep the beer dry)

(Drop in; no need to sign-up for camping)

But!

Catered dinner for those who respond to Eric or Bill before the 23rd
Otherwise: BYO eats!
Catered dinner: $15.00 /person est. max.
BYOB

Must reserve with Eric or Bill for catered dinner:
E-mail: Eric
E-mail: Bill

Rock Program T-Shirt Recall
17-May-2007

Dear Rock Program Students, Assistants, and Leaders,

There is a recall on the new Rock Program Tee Shirt for the 2007 Program. It has come to our attention that there were a few graphic errors on the tee shirt. The Bachmann and Klemheist knots have been switched and the Munter is not tied correctly. The Rock Planning Collective and Mountaineering Committee have reviewed these issues and are currently reprinting the shirts so that YOU can have a revised 2007 edition.

Our goal is to collect all of the recalled shirts and distribute new shirts to everyone who received one.

For those of you attending New Seconds, we will have the new tee shirts available. Please bring your old 2007 shirt and we will swap them.

For everyone else, we will make accommodations to either mail them to you or distribute them during Wednesday nights at Quincy Quarries. For QQ please bring your old shirt.

If you would like for us to mail you a shirt, please email: [mail] with your name and mailing address in the email.

We sincerely apologize for any inconvenience we have caused you and hope that we can get you your new tee shirt soon.

Sincerely,
The Rock Collective

Spring Rescue Class
19-Apr-2007

The committee is now offering a spring rescue class in June.
Read more

Steph Davis Book Tour/Slide Show
03-Apr-2007

Professional free climber Steph Davis will be coming to the Harvard Campus to Emerson #305 on April 16th from 8-10pm for a slide show presentation of her climbs, a book signing for her new book High Infatuation: A Climber's Guide to Love and Gravity as well as a Q&A session. The event is FREE for all who are interested, and we hope that everyone will tell their fellow climbers and come out to meet this amazing climber.

For those who don't know, Steph Davis is on record with first ascents in Pakistan, Patagonia, Baffin Island, and Kyrgyzstan. She was the first U.S. woman to summit the 11,073-foot Fitz Roy Peak in Patagonia, a sucess realized after spending five seasons, a total of ten months, to achieve her goal.

Here is the website for her new book if you are interested.

March Access Fund News
28-Jan-2007

Latest news from the Access Fund.
Read more

Boston Area Interactive Climbing Map
26-Mar-2007

Check out the interactive map of the rocks and gyms of the Boston area.
Climbing Map

Mountaineering Historian, Andy Selters: "Ways to the Sky"
16-Jan-2007

The American Alpine Club and the Appalachian Mountain Club present:
Mountaineering Historian
Andy Selters

"Ways to the Sky"

Author, climber and photographer Andy Selters will present a multi- media digital show on the history of climbing in North America. His 2004 book- "Ways to the Sky"- won top honors from the Banff Mountain Book Festival and the National Outdoor Book Award. Selters' presentation portrays the progression of mountaineering and its basis in our culture using images of historical climbs from every decade and from peaks from all over the continent. Andy has been a climbing guide, author, and photographer for over 20 years. He has pioneered new routes in the Karakoram, the Himalaya, and the Andes.

Thursday, February 15th, 7:00pm
AMC Cabot Auditorium
3 Joy St., Boston, MA

Admission: $7.00 at the door

Book sale and signings
Local contact: [mail]

2006 Annual Report
07-Nov-2006

The 2006 Annual Report of the Boston Chapter Mountaineering Committee is up.
Read more

Wilderness First Aid Classes
02-Nov-2006

The committee is now offering Wilderness First Aid and Advanced WFA classes in November and December.
Read more

Petzl Carabiners Recall
31-Oct-2006

Stop use until inspected

Name of product: Am'D Ball-Lock, William Ball-Lock

Petzl America voluntarily announced a recall of Petzl M34 BL Am'D BALL-LOCK and M36 BL WILLIAM BALL-LOCK carabiners with the new metal locking sleeve due to the possibility that the sleeve can be unlocked without pressing the green button, so the locking system acts as a TWIST-LOCK, instead of a BALL-LOCK. Affected units were sold during March and July, 2006. No incidents or injuries have been reported. This information does not apply to the older nylon-sleeve locking system, but only to BALL-LOCK carabiners with the metal locking sleeve manufactured in March and July, 2006.
Read more

Annual Holiday Party
30-Oct-2006

The Committee is sponsoring its annual Holiday Party this year on Friday evening, Dec. 1st. This event has drawn well over a 100 each of the last several years. A social event not to be missed. Catered dinner, raffle and yearly awards!
Read more

Fall Frolic Pictures
17-Oct-2006

We had two most beautiful days at the Gunks for Fall Frolic with a nice Saturday dinner at Rivendell Vineyard, followed by a most appreciated bonfire. Earlier in the morning it was a sight waking up, finding your tent and car all white with frost.



Thanks to Chris Dame for sharing his pictures from the evening events:
Chris' Fall Frolic Site

Adopt a Crag - Hammond Pond Cleanup
21-Sep-2006

Saturday, September 23
10 am - 2 pm

Please call REI at (781) 740-9430 to register and obtain directions.

Now is your chance to give back to a favorite park and popular rock- climbing area. REI, the Access Fund, and DCR have partnered to bring this year’s Adopt-A-Crag event to Metro West. We will improve the climbing walls and park trails of Hammond Pond Reservation. Please wear long pants and bring work gloves and water. Lunch and free t-shirt from REI provided.

Sign up for Fall Frolic now!
21-Sep-2006

Dear Fellow Climber,

Please join us at the Fall Frolic / Old Seconds Weekend at the Gunks on October 14-15. Also, feel free to invite your climbing friends to join us.

This is NOT Columbus Day weekend. Columbus Day weekend (Oct 7-8) we have the Harvard Cabin in Jackson, NH for climbing in the North Conway area. Contact girlovesgear@verizon.net for further info about the Harvard cabin weekend.

We will NOT be matching leaders and seconds at Fall Frolic. All climbers must make their own arrangements for partners. This is an Old Seconds weekend, though. Leaders are encouraged to seek out graduates of this year's rock program and invite them to climb -- perhaps for one day or joining you for a party of three. Consider inviting your new seconds or other graduates you have met top roping or climbing this season.

Full information about the Fall Frolic / Old Seconds Weekend is available at: home.earthlink.net/~fall.frolic

You can also register online at this site -- Its quick; its simple; its fun!! Payment is accepted via Paypal or major credit card. Please register online.

The web site features a ride board (password is "horseman"). Find a ride or a companion to share your vehicle. The Ride Board will become operational on September 25.

You MUST register by October 9 to attend. We are limiting the number of registrations to avoid overcrowding at the Saturday dinner. Register now to avoid being shut out!

We will again be camping at the Rivendell Winery near the Trapps (714 Albany Post Rd, New Paltz, NY) for two nights (Fri and Sat). A catered dinner will be held in the pavilion on Saturday evening.

For Saturday dinner, you have the choice of a meat or vegetarian entree. The actual menu is still being worked out, and will be posted on the web site when it is finalized.

Dinner includes entree, bread, salad, dessert, and soft drinks. Wine will be available for sale at the winery; You can bring in your own beer.

There will be a CASH raffle with great prizes at $1.00/raffle ticket.

Cost: The cost of Saturday dinner and 2 nights of camping is $42.00 for one adult and $79.00 for two adults who register together and pay with a single check. The rate for children 16 years and younger is $18.00. This is a package deal and you cannot camp without participating in the dinner.

Directions to Winery: From exit 18 on I87 take Route 299 west through New Paltz and over a bridge (Wallkill River). 1/2 to 1 mile past the bridge veer left onto Libertyville Road (see sign for the Winery at the turn). Rivendell Winery will be about 5 miles down on the right. Turn right into the Winery, and up the dirt road.

Complete details and online registration are at home.earthlink.net/~fall.frolic

Please send any questions to Fall.Frolic@earthlink.net.

I hope you can make this weekend.

Rick Buirkle

Gear Sale - To Benefit Scott Sandberg Memorial Fund
from Richard Doucette
26-Aug-2006

The following collection of climbing books and gear is for sale by Richard Doucette. If interested please contact him at rpdoucette@yahoo.com or 617-875-6497. Details and pictures can be provided. All proceeds will go to the Scott Sandberg Memorial Fund.

Guidebooks
Cathedral and Whitehorse Ledges (Rockfax Series), J.Handren
Secrets of the Notch, J.Sykes, 2001
Gunks Guide, T.Swain, third edition 1995
Rock Climbing in Acadia National Park, P.Warner, second edition 1998
Rock Climbs in the White Mtns of NH (east volume), E.Webster, third edition 1996
Yosemite Free Climbs (Falcon Guide), D.Reid, 1998
Rock Climbing New England (Falcon Guide), S.Green, 2001 [slightly worn]


Books, Technique
Climbing Anchors (Falcon Guide), J.Long 1993
More Climbing Anchors (Falcon Guide), Long & Gaines 1996
Climb On!, Skills for More Efficient Climbing, Florine & Wright 2002
Sport Climbing, Ebersfield & Boga 1997
Climbing Knots, for lefties and righties, Carlisle-McMullen 1997


Climbing Literature
Eiger Dreams, J.Krakauer, 1990
Close Calls, Climbing Mishaps and Near-Death Experiences, J.Long, 1999


Gear
Pair, 60m Mammut half ropes (aka "doubles")
Ascender, Petzl (fits ropes 8-13mm)
Soloist self-belay device
Soloaid self-belay device
Belay devices: Trango Pyramid & Figure 8, BD ATC, Petzl Reverso
12 point strap-on crampons, Salewa
Gaiters, OR goretex
Child's rock shoes, Red Chili, size unknown, approx 7" exterior length
Trango child's body harness
Full set (plus an extra couple) Metolious TCUs
BD ice spectre
Gear Sling, Metolious, adjustable, 4 loops
Fifi hook, Black Diamond
Nut pick, Wild Country
Various biners: 2 Petzl attachés, 4 ovals, 4 Ds various colors

The Rock Warrior's Way - Mental Training for Climbers Course
by the Webmistress
26-Jul-2006

Hey there! I'm just back from taking this course tonight up in Manchester and it was absolutely fabulous. Sign up if you can and want to work on fear of falling, better focus, better CLIMBING. This weekend at MetroRock. Below are more details.

Arno Ilgner, author of book The Rock Warrior's Way - Mental Training for Climbers , will be offering mental fitness climbing clinics in the Northeast the end of July. Please contact the respective gyms if you'd like to attend, and please pass this on to other climbers. Course description and dates are below.

Clinics at Metro Rock in Everett, MA -- July 29, 9am-1pm; 2-6pm [617-387-7625]

Slideshow Presentation at EMS, Paramus, NJ -- July 31, 7pm [201-670-6464]

---------------------------------------------------
The Warrior's Way Espresso Course

-- Course description:
The Warrior's Way mental fitness clinics teach how to focus attention during the climbing process, especially when we are most apt to seek escape. By learning how to focus attention we reduce our fears and improve our commitment.

--- You'll learn to:
* Develop self awareness
* Stay centered
* Fall [for rope climbing clinics]
* Improve commitment
* Improve fluidity
* Reduce doubts
* Improve problem-solving skills
* Reduce fear, and more

---- Content of the class:
You'll be doing climbing exercises on lead or toprope, depending on the amount of leading experience you have. The exercises will begin on moderately difficult routes, then falling practice, more moderate routes, and finally a challenging climb.

----- What to expect:
We'll begin by learning how to break a climb into decision points. Second, we'll learn to notice the type of thoughts we typically have. Third, we'll practice falling (in small increments and only as much as the student wants). Fourth, we'll work on improving fluidity and staying centered. Finally, we learn how to prepare and commit at these decision point.

------ Requirement for class:
It is helpful if you've read the book but it isn't absolutely necessary. The gym has a pdf handout that they will print out for you so you can become familiar with the Warrior's Way concepts. The course seems to be best for those who have hit some sort of plateau, experience some frustration, fear, loss of motivation, or other mental fitness issue. You do need to know the fundamentals of knots, belaying, and basic climbing skills.

------- Equipment Needed:
Rope clinics: Harness, shoes, belay device, and a helmet (if you have one). The gym will provide lead ropes and sometimes helmets.
Bouldering clinics: Shoes, chalk

--------
Course length: 4 hours
Investment: Gym - $75 for non-members; $60 for members
Max number: 6
Meeting place: the hosting gym
How to register: contact the hosting gym

Anchors and Introduction to Trad Leading Climbing Course
08-Jun-2006

Tom Boydston, through MetroRock Gym, will be offering a series of 2 day courses throughout this summer that will help you take that next step. There are still openings for available in the June, July and August courses.

The course is a comprehensive 2 consecutive day training in anchors, leading, rope management, gear placement, and more, with emphasis on efficient multi-pitch climbing.

Prerequisites for the course
- Have 1 complete modern trad rack, rope in good condition. (or between you and your climbing partner who is also taking the course)
- Able to follow confidently to 5.7. Ideally attempted leading at places such as Rumney.
- You have a harness and helmet in good condition, and comfortable climbing shoes.

Course Dates
June 17, 18. Openings Available.
July 15, 16 Openings Available.
August: 19, 20. Openings Available.

Location: North Conway Cathedral Ledge

Cost: $275 per person ($100 deposit required before the course).

For more information, contact: teboydston at comcast.net

A Mountain Film with Local Heroes - See Benedictus on May 10th
18-Apr-2006

"Benedictus"

a documentary by Jen Tennican and Bill Clack

will be shown at The Regent Theatre in Arlington

Wednesday, May 10th at 7 PM

"Benedictus" chronicles Tom Callaghan's multi-year adventure in establishing a new rock climbing route on Cannon Cliff in New Hampshire.

(Tom has been on the forefront of New England climbing for decades and is a former chair of the Mountaineering Committee)

Tickets on sale at the door from 6 PM the day of the show. $7 (cash only, please)

For every ticket sold, JenTen Productions and the Boston AMC Mountaineering Committee will donate $2 to the North Conway Mountain Rescue Service

For advance sales, please contact Jennifer Tennican. Please indicate Benedictus tickets in the subject line of the email.

Join the Access Fund, Save $$!
24-Mar-2006

Save $ on Access Fund membership, and send $ to your local organization Through the end of April, current Access Fund members can renew their membership and The AMC Boston Chapter Mountaineering Committee will receive $5 for every person who signs up. For climbers new to the Access Fund, a special introductory rate of $10.00 is available! To take advantage of this special offer, click here to join the Access Fund.

Chicken and Date Tagine
by Chris Dame
30-Jan-2006

Several diners at the recent Ice Course weekend requested the recipe for the main dish that night – Chicken Tagine. This dish was a loose adaptation of the dish by the same name contained on page 372 of Sheila Lukins’s "All Around the World Cookbook". Finding it my mouth watered remembering the delicious tagine’s I ate on a trip to Morroco’s Atlas Mountain area a year ago. The challenge to find ingredients is somewhat simplified by the abundance of Armenian grocery stores in nearby Watertown. Ingredients (for 6 – imagine factoring up for 50!): One chicken (3.5#), cut into pieces (I used breasts and thighs, deskinned instead) 1 cup chopped onion 6 cloves garlic 1 cup chopped flat leaf parsley ½ cup plus 3 tablespoons chopped fresh mint leaves 1 teaspoon ground cardamom ¼ teaspoon crumbled saffron threads ¼ cup good olive oil ¼ cup lemon juice 1 3 inch cinnamon stick strips of peel from one orange, no pith 2 ½ cups defatted chicken broth (I used commercial) salt & pepper to taste 1 (15.5 oz) can chickpeas drained and rinsed 8 oz. pitted large dates (I Used large package of ground dates for baking) 6 ripe plum tomatoes (I used whole canned) cut into ½ dice couscous

  1. Rinse chicken, removing fat, dry. Place in large container, add onion, garlic, parsley, ½ cup mint, cardamom, and saffron, then oil and lemon juice, and toss well (use your hands) to coat and combine flavors. Cover and refrigerate for at least 8 hours – the longer the better. Turn occasionally (nothing like getting up at 3 AM to turn the cold greasy chicken)
  2. To cook – p]lace chicken in large pot with marinade. Add cinomon stick, orange peel, broth, s&p. Bring to boil slowly, reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, partially covered, for 30 minutes. Stir in the chickpeas, dates, and tomatoes, and simmer for another 30 minutes.
  3. To serve, remove cinnamon stick and peel, and pour over couscous.

It will help the dish to have wet miserable climbers who have been out all day and consumed large amounts of alcohol as consumers.